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This article provides sewing guidelines on where and how to match stripes accurately on a garment, and how to work around situations in which a perfect match is simply impossible. When selecting striped fabric, take a moment to analyze the striped pattern's structure. Fold the fabric along a stripe to determine if one has balanced or unbalanced stripe. To envision a garment in stripes, take a close look at the pattern schematics. For the easiest matching job, select designs that have few section seams. Stripes can't always be matched on garments with curved seams, pattern sections drafted on a grain perpendicular to their adjacent pieces, and applied details. Consider cutting garment sections on perpendicular grains or on the bias for new graphic effects; it's easier and more interesting to cut a pocket welt on the bias or perpendicular grain than it is to match it to the body of a jacket. Once the decision on how the stripes would fall on the garment is made, then one is ready to work on the layout puzzle. Prepare the pattern by cutting off seam allowances and removing or folding up hem allowances. This will enable one to match stripes at the garment seamlines, rather than at the cutting lines. Lay out and cut one garment section at a time, using previously cut pieces as guides for laying out adjacent sections to match. After careful planning and cutting, it is recommended to pin carefully, hand- or machine-basting seams before sewing and using a walking foot if necessary to prevent fabric layers from shifting. |
